Hunters Lodge
Right by a small lake and very peaceful though. Monday we
set off quite early heading for Nanyuki which is a good 220 miles away. The
East Africa highway is full of pot holes and every other vehicle is a haulage
truck but the section to Nairobi
from Hunters Lodge was fantastic. I (Martin) remember turning out of Hunters
Lodge onto the tarmac, being warmed by the early morning sun and just thinking
how great it was to be able to be there and doing this trip. The ride was
wonderful until we go to Nairobi
where we have to find the Nanyuki road. We stopped off at the bank to try our luck with an ATM. It was all heavily guarded and Paul had a nice chat with Gabriel the guard while I went to try the ATM..which worked!
Gabriel the ATM guard
Paul writes...
Having had a fantastic ride up to Nairobi,
neither of us were looking forward to navigating our way through Nairobi town centre to
the Thika Highway.
On our previous trip this was one of the worst experiences we encountered.
Absolute chaos, swelteringly hot, no road rules and no signposts. For me it was
even worse as I had Martin with me!
As I was leading on our approach to Nairobi, I decided to stop prior to entering
the main town so that we could establish a game plan to emerge the other side
still friends. We pulled onto the hard shoulder and after Martin had made some
adjustments to his small tubes we agreed that I would lead with Martin
following as close as possible.
We set off and within 2 minutes Martin had overtaken me,
What was the point I asked myself (although I may have used slightly different
words!)
Martin...
Typical of Africa is that every person we asked in the
traffic jam for the way to the Nanyuki road gave us a different answer
accompanied by sweeping and assured hand movements (watch it Charlie!!!). Despite
this, we reached the Thika highway - a modern three lane motorway with actual
green signs and actual junction numbers safely accommodating speeds of over 90
MPH (don’t worry Sophie!!!). Anyway we found something much more African than
that which was the introduction of zebra crossing across the highway. They were
randomly strewn across the motorway in typical African style there was no
warning at all of this other than a HUGE sleeping policeman located at about 5
yards distance from the crossing….CRAZY CRAZY CRAZY!
We arrived in Nanyuki around 4.00pm which is an equator town.
The scenery was getting progressively more spectacular.
Kenyan landscapes getting bigger and more magnificent all the way. The road was
very good and hardly any traffic. Each time you reach a ‘station’ where people
are selling goods etc you are slowed by speed bumps. These vary but they are
all fierce and some have one, others have many. They appear at the start and
the finish but this is always unpredicatable.
Typical stuff at a station
I love these stations they smell
of fire wood and you can buy anything from an inner tube to some firewood.
Fantastic. The ride was so great and once we were clear of Nairobi it was what this trip is all about.
Martin pulling out of a 'station' amongst the
usual chaos
The Kimara Springs Hotel in Nanyuki should have been a
welcoming sight after 225 miles of riding which was not kind to the Coccyx! It
was just off the road on a bumpy track and it looked distinctly unpromising.
Apparently Lonely Planet says it is the best of a bad bunch in Nanyuki. HOWEVER
it is a great place. The staff, like all the Kenyans we have met are so lovely and
have a great sense of humour. We have a view of mount Kenya which makes up
for…pretty much everything else! The ‘Hotel’ is perfect for what we need. We
were starving so we had half a chicken each for supper with delicious greens
accompanied by the very loud Kenyan TV news (new government here so everyone is
very excited and optimistic) and good chats with the staff. The promise of a good night’s sleep in decent
sized beds beckoned. We both slept badly and had to be up early to meet up with
Humphrey.
Tuesday
Woke early and had very small breakfast in anticipation of
large lunch with Humphrey at his farm in the country.
Humphrey
is our Kenyan fixer and shipper. He was so excited to hear we would be
heading in his direction when we arrived n Mombasa as he was up country
at his farm. So we left Mombasa a day early and took Tuesday as our
Humphrey day. He was longing to show us his farm!
Usual random Police Check point. Miss this and you definitely get a puncture
Scenery on the way to Humphrey's farm
Paul...
We met him at Meru at
0830 as agreed and followed him to his farm.
50 acres of trees, scrub and bracken alongside a half built
pig-pen a half built chicken house and a white painted trestle table upon which
was a bottle of Grants Whisky! Neither of us expected this. We were taken on a
tour of the “grounds” where Humphrey explained there would be a 9 hole golf
course here, chalets there, go-Kart track over the back – it went on and on
including how he would fly us in on a chopper for the opening. The thing is
with Humphrey, neither of us can tell if this is fantasy or will really happen.
At the trestle table on the farm!
The chicken. A boiled 'road runner'
Bike at the farm looking 'Adventurish'
A puppy at the farm
That said, he took us for a tour of the local countryside
which truly was spectacular; So far every day has been better than the day
before.
Kenya!
3pm and we say goodbye so that we can return to our hotel
and update the blog. I hope you are all grateful!!
En route we stop at the equator…….
Equator Pic!
Where I end up buying what we thought was a leopard or
cheetah but was surprised to hear it described by the “salesman” as a tiger.
This much sought after item will be raffled for charity upon
our return so start saving!
Tomorrow we set of to Samburu Intrepids Camp. We meet our
host at the nobly named ‘Archers Post’
which is the entrance to the park, We are scheduled for three days there
to relax and go on any of the twice daily game drives. Cameras will be fully
charged. Or as they say here ‘Chaagd’. We
don’t know if there will be internet access so you may have to wait for the
next installment,
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