Thoroughly Contented

Sunset over Masaka

Thursday: Martin writes. The bike was taken to the overland truck transporter on Tuesday afternoon. It was put delicately and lovingly in amongst hundreds of Coffee Bean sacks. The guys that helped me prepare it for shipping were so helpful and Bernadette the agent was lovely. All seemed very sure-footed and knew exactly what they were doing. I dare say in a week or so it will be with Humphrey in Mombasa.

What we leave behind...or rather who...

I spent the rest of the day doing a major re-pack to try to get about 50KG's of sundry items including boots, tent, sleeping bag, helmet panniers into a manageable state for flying back to UK. I had to make a quick decision on whether to move with all my gear to Mombasa and wait for Paul or snap up a BA opportunity to fly home weds evening. Paul was making progress but at that early stage there was no way of knowing what would be round his corner...he will tell all when he gets to a computer...!

She was the first to venture out to greet us in Wanale in Uganda

I purchased a very large suit case for £20 in Kigali and hoped it would carry my panniers, boots and tent etc home. I shed some sundry items that would be helpful to the Tearfund projects here in Kigali. I had dinner with the Tearfund Rwanda/Burundi director Emmanuel and his wife Alice. Turns out that Burundi is absolutely overrun with HIV/AIDS as govt has embezzled all the aid and the international aid taps have now been turned off. Emmanuel was telling me how the bishop is Burundi was weeping over the state of the nation and especially over how whole communities were being wiped out by AIDS. Terrible.

Also turns out that Emmanuel's sisters had both been delivered by one 'Rev Church' a famous missionary doctor who remains legendary in Rwanda for having been there through the 1950's Genocide and stuck with his people at the mission station throughout. This Rev Church worships at St James and has told many moving stories of being part of that mission as he grew up. Emmanuel said "There are two names that everyone around here will always remember, and one of them is Reverend Church."...wow! I felt so honoured to know John.

This little one was petrified of us. Scary Mizungu!

Next morning it was off to Nairobi to embark on 24hrs travelling. But not before I discovered more of what was happening to Paul to make sure I should not, even now, divert to Mombasa or somewhere...he will tell you more. And also not before I discovered that despite being careful to lock my door and despite the compound being under 24 hr guard I had had all my remaining cash stolen. GBP's USD's UGS's and KES's...all gone. Neatly taken from my bum bag during a brief absence some time that previous day. We think they climbed over through my balcony door.

So I set off for Nairobi sans argent. At the airport I went into the VIP lounge (all things being relative for Africa!). There was complementary sodas and food...very nice...I sort of blagged my way in. As I left I was presented with a bill for 6000RWS...er....I thought the food was Free...er I have no money...er this guy overheard and paid up for me...er how embarrassing. Thanks so much whoever you were!

My Nairobi flight was cancelled so I finally got off the ground at 1345. Someone who knows who they are but shall remain nameless to protect their blushes had rescheduled my BA journey to LHR and I was upgraded. So I was able to take the 9 hr wait to 2330 in the BA lounge at Nairobi AND to sleep really well on the plane. That wait at Nairobi in the corridors would have been horrendous. Hot, crowded, long. Plus I had no money! So THANK YOU SO MUCH!

I reviewed the journal of the last 21/2 weeks and added to it as I flew home. I was filled with a sense of deep privilege that I had been able thanks to the support and encouragement of so many family and friends, to participate in this African adventure. It has been a journey that I will never forget. I do not feel cheated, I feel very privileged to have had the opportunity to do it. It feels a bit like attempting Everest. It is not always a success in terms of getting to the top but to travel is always better than to arrive. This little Odyssey began the day Paul & I said we would go for it back in 2009. It continued with preparation and the final execution and it will continue to shape and form me in the months ahead. To have had a go and met so many extraordinary people and seen so many incredible and unforgettable places and to have ridden on two wheels on the most bizarre and quirky roads I have ever experienced; to have had that red dust kicked up in front of me and get into my eyes and crunch between my teeth...that was what it was all about. I will remember this trip with great joy and I have learned so much about myself, about faith, about priorities and and about the human spirit. I would not have missed it for the world. I am very grateful.